Either nobody buys this or everyone flocks to it and they absolutely rake it in. I did their assessment and max hangs @ 90% on a 25mm edge worked out to exactly bodyweight. I’ve found that it’s good to have a mix of short duration hangs and longer hangs. If I only do short hangs (1-3 seconds), then hanging a full 10 feels long, so I like to hang for 10 seconds at 70-80% of max. edge and max hangs can be effective as well. - is that 4 days of rest from max hangs, or 4 days of complete rest? - do you weigh the same now as you did before your break? (not trying to start a discussion about weight loss, just inquiring whether the training load is actually off by 20#) - are you warming up properly? (including lower intensity hangs before the training load) Want to get strong on slopers and pinches? Here's how: Session: Pinch Block Max 90% 1️⃣ 6 sets 2️⃣ Rest: 00:30/ rep, 01:30/set 3️⃣Resistance: 90% of maximum The goal of this workout is to I think the point of the post is not to just hangboard correctly: But seriously focus on maintaining the grip you intend you strengthen--specifically the half-crimp, because it is an entirely different crimping position and strength that does not translate well from hangboarding open-handedly. 1x 10 sec @ 80% 1x 10 sec @ 90% 3x 10 sec @100% 3 Mins rest between Reps Add more weight if easily able to complete I haven't tested my max hangs since, so this answer won't be specific to that. Users who had completed two finger strength tests within a 4-16-week period were included. If a 10-second hang at bodyweight is impossible or causes your form to break down, you must reduce the load. Some new climbers might feel tweaky from it because they can’t actually hang BW (and might be far from it) and they do 40% BW hangs which end up being a lot more than they should.

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